Croatia and the Dalmatian Coast

November 27, 2011
Ron and I are ‘sluts for travel’, in his words, so any time he has work we try to take a trip to explore an area new to us. When we finished the assignment in Tbilisi we headed to Croatia. We arrived in Dubrovnik, Croatia and were met by our apartment host, Nives. Unfortunately our luggage did not arrive with us. The drive from the airport was beautiful, along the Adriatic coast.

Our first day, we took an early morning walk through old town and came across two women selling hand made table linens. We bought a few pieces and continued on our way. We stumbled onto the ethnological museum and loved it. It was housed in a building originally used as a grain storage house. The displays were simple but very educational. The building was fascinating.

The weather in Dubrovnik was sunny and warm, so we only needed our sweaters. We had left TBS in our winter parkas because it was snowing when we caught our 5:00 a.m. plane to Munich. In Croatia, we sat outside at an outdoor café and had espresso drinks mid-morning and again at lunch where we sat outside and by this time we had shed our sweaters. We continued to explore the town and then took the City Walls Walk. The walls were built around the city as a defense in the 10th century and modified in the 13th century. The guards could walk along the top of the walls and now so can tourists. It took about an hour, stopping to take photos. We had great views of old town and the islands off the coast. We took the cable car up the hill overlooking the city to take photos of the sunset which sets at 4:15, much earlier than TBS. When we got back home our luggage had arrived.

On day two we had a slow morning, enjoying coffee and pastries in the room. Ron and I are coffee snobs, being from the land of Starbucks so we travel with an electric teapot, good coffee and a cone with filters so we can make our own coffee. We then went to the Franciscan monastery built in 1317. Still standing was a fountain from 15th century in a lovely garden in the center of the monastery. There was a pharmacy that has been in use since 1717 and has displays of various items used in the pharmacy. We also visited the museum that contained various religious items. Next we visited the Rector’s palace, an important political and administrative center of the Republic of Ragusa (this area at the time was Ragusa). The building was built in 1435 and was a wonderful structure and contained many items of interest from the various periods in history. The beautiful locking trunks fascinated us with their intricate locking devices. We saw some
exquisite Italian ceramic vessels used in pharmacies from the 15th century. We bought a traditional Croatian Easter egg at the shop there. The eggs in this part of the world are most often dyed a deep red color and here they decorate them using a batik technique.

November 30th
Today was our 26th anniversary and we rented a car and drove up the coast for four hours to Split. Along the way we stopped in Ston on a recommendation from Penney, a friend and from our host in Dubrovnik. What a lovely area. A lot of oyster beds are found here and we first stopped at a sweet hotel on the water and had coffee outside and enjoyed the sunshine. We explored the area taking in the salt pans that have been here since 1000 A.D. We went back to the hotel and ordered a simple lunch, deciding to split an order of ‘crispy fried oysters’. The order came and we ate the first oyster and ‘had a moment’ as Sandi, Ron’s sister likes to say. The oysters were perfect: hot, light, moist and tasted faintly of the sea. After eating the plate of oysters we looked at each other and decided more was better and ordered another plate of oysters. Heavenly. Back into the car and we continued up the coast exclaiming about the beauty the entire way.

When we got to Split we were surprised to discover it is a very large city and we were lost in terms of how to get to our hotel. But after two stops and a lot of frustration, I asked a man in a parking lot if he spoke English. Lucky for me he did. He did not know how to find our hotel so called and lo ad behold he told us to follow him and he took us there. We were so grateful as we were so lost.

OMG, I about fell over when I walked into the lobby. I have learned of this hotel from Trip Advisor and never looked at the photos of the hotel online. Ron and I love simple traditional, homey kind of places. This place is out of this world. The entire lobby is white: white high gloss furniture with purple or lavender accents pillows, silver floor tiles, stark white walls. The white light fixtures are too strange to describe. Our room has a glass wall between the bedroom and bathroom so one of us can sit in the bedroom and watch the other one bathe. Weird. Our carpet is bright strips of bright aqua, soft aqua, deep purple, lavender and two tones of taupe about three inches wide. Our light fixture shades look like the three foot fringe off of a leather jacket Cher wore in the 60’s. The curtain that can be used on the glass wall between the bedroom and bath is silver. The desk chair is modern molded plastic. All the furniture is stark white with a high gloss finish. The tile wall behind the toilet is heavily dimpled and totally iridescent purple. Who ever decorated this place was very good at consistent design concept but OMG what taste. It is so not us. We managed to survive however.

We spent the next day in Split exploring what had been Dioclenitian’s palace, the Roman emperor from the fourth century. Our hotel was five minutes away from old town. It was interesting to observe how parts of the original structure had been incorporated into 16th century churches and homes of wealthy nobles and modern day shops and cafes. In its day the palace was huge. We relaxed in the afternoon with Ron working on a report and me reading on our balcony overlooking the waterfront. We got up early on Friday to drive back to Dubrovnik. We had planned to take photos of the spectacular coast but unfortunately there was a lot of haze and it made no sense to try and take photos. We arrived at the airport in good time and read until departure at 4:00. We flew to Zagreb, changed planes for Munich and changed again for TBS, arriving bright and early at 4:00 a.m. We got to bed at 5:30 and took a pill and slept until 10ish. We are staying at Leslie’s house while she is at a wedding in FL. We got up and walked to a couple of nearby shops for butter, eggs and bread for our breakfast. Ron spent the day working on his report and I lazed around the house and managed to do a load of laundry. We went to a nearby Indian restaurant, our fav and asked our friend Rick to join us as he lives nearby and his wife Dorothy is in the US recovering form surgery. Rick is the Peace Corps director here and as we were waiting for our dinner, 11 of his volunteers came in for dinner. PC volunteers in Georgia make 250 GEL a month, that’s about $130 a month. They were in town for a meeting as they all live in rural areas of Georgia. As we were leaving Ron and I paid for their dinners as a random act of kindness. We asked the cashier to wait until the volunteers were ready to pay their bill before telling them and to thank them for their service.

On Sunday we had brunch with Kirsten and her son Aquil who also live nearby. We have massages scheduled next then over to Lily’s for more goodbyes. Gia will pick us up at 2:45 in the morning for our 5:00 flight to Munich, Washington DC then on to Portland, a mere 27 hour trip! OY!

lies, damn lies and statistics

November 23 2011

Ron and I read a daily Georgian English language paper here. Today’s paper had a small article on the unemployment figures in Georgia. You have to love this. Just more proof about how useless statistics can be. I quote “Official statistics claim that unemployment in Georgia is 16.3%. Official statistics identify an unemployed person as someone who is older that 15 who was not employed for even one hour for the last seven days who has been searching for a job for the last four weeks and was ready to start working in the following two weeks. One cannot be considered unemployed in a rural place if one possesses at least 10 sq meters (a meter is 39 inches folks) of land. (Emphasis is mine). Of those employed 17.4% live on approximately GEL 2 a day. (a GEL is 60 US cents). A total of 80% of the rural population is self employed. That means they work on their land. (that probably means they are growing some veggies to prevent starvation). If we add up all those figures and assess the reality then unemployed is around 60% in the country.” End quote. OY!!!!!!!!!!!!

Today I went to my former housekeeper’s home for a visit. I had never seen her house and she wanted me to see it. Nino and Zura started building their house about eight years ago when he had a good job. Before they finished the house, he was laid off and he hasn’t had regular employment until he started working as a guard for the embassy in August 2010. So the house remains unfinished. Most of the downstairs is completed although it was not heated. The kitchen and dining area are heated and that is where we visited. Zura’s mother lives with them and she prepared tea for us. When we sat down at the table, there was a bowl of fresh fruit, three kinds of ‘preserves’, two kinds of juice, something that looked like a hamburger bun, some salami and ketchup. Zura wanted me to try everything. I cannot handle much sugar so literally ate a quarter of a teaspoon of the preserves and about two inches of the juice. Zura’s mom comes from a rural village so making all these items is common. Unfortunately there was so much sugar in each of these items I could not taste the fruit. Just about then Nino’s mom came over. She lives next door. She brought cake with a half inch of sugar frosting and two kinds of pastry that I thought it might just be baked dough. No such luck. They were filled with sugared fruit. I took the thinnest slice of the cake. I thought I was going to throw up on the way home from all the sugar. I wanted to eat a teaspoon of salt to counteract the sugar.. They were curious as to why I didn’t eat more but I explained that I had eaten breakfast before coming and that I had a noon lunch date. Mind you most people in the family are overweight. No surprise there given the diet.

My friend Steph from MN said her mother-in-law who is Georgian offered to boil them bake a turkey for her family for Thanksgiving. When Steph asked why would she boil and bake a turkey she discovered that turkeys are so tough here that boiling is necessary to tenderize the bird. No Norbest or Butterballs here folks! You can also assume the birds are much smaller if she has a pot big enough in which to boil a turkey.

November 24, 2011

Today is Thanksgiving and it is cold. With the wind chill factor it is 28 outside. It is gray but dry. The hills are covered with snow and the clouds are hovering over the hills obscuring the tops. I walked for 30 minutes to pay for a scarf I bought a few days ago from a local artist. I didn’t have the money on me at the time but she insisted I take the scarf. Great technique so I couldn’t change my mind.

After I returned to the hotel, there was a knock at the door and one of the housekeepers handed me a replacement shoe shine brush. I had set the dried up one by the trash can this morning. After she handed it to me she said in a thick Georgian accent ‘Thank you for the money’. I leave tips for the staff. Then she said ‘Happy’ and she tried so hard to remember the word and I said ‘Thanksgiving’. Her face lit up and she smiled brightly. I thanked her and off she went.

After describing the weather today and the hills, the sun came out and the beauty of the sun on the hills made me weep. Or maybe it was the housekeeper’s gratitude.  This place can be so grim and yet it can transform into a place of such beauty.

Ron and I ate a simple dinner at a nearby German restaurant.

Black Friday. We woke up to a snow covered Tbilisi and were grateful it was a light snow that was dissipating by the time we got up. I walked to the laundry and it was bitter cold, the kind that makes tears come into my eyes.

Today is Ron’s last day of work. He will teach half day then go to the office to do his paper work. We will have dinner with our friend Leslie at one of our favorite restaurants, Vong, an Asian fusion place. Tomorrow we will pack up and store two suitcases at Leslie’s and have brunch with Lily, Adey and Fantanesh, our friends from Ethiopia. At 4:00 a.m. Sunday we will fly to Croatia for a mini vacation. We will be there for six days then return to TBS for two days before flying home on the 5^th.

Back in Batumi or rain on the Black Sea

November 10 2011

There are some odd things about Georgia. One of them is change. Most merchants start the day without a ‘bank’, meaning a cash drawer with various denominations of coins and bills. They expect the customer to pay the correct amount. Does that seem backwards to you? Today I ate lunch at one of the hotel’s three restaurants. This is one of the larger hotels in Batumi. There are four floors of rooms, totaling 145 rooms. I had soup, bread and water for lunch. The soup was four lari, a steal, the bread was free and the water was three lari, ridiculous since the soup required more labor, ingredients, etc. My total bill was 7.70 lari as service is added to the bill here. I gave the waitress a 20 lari note and the cashier left the room and went into another restaurant to make change. OY! BTW a lari is about sixty cents.

We arrived Monday and it snowed overnight. Since then is has been raining. I got out for a walk the second morning here when there was a break in the weather but now rain is predicted everyday we are here. Fortunately there is a brief break everyday and I am able to get out for a walk. Otherwise I would get a severe case of cabin fever and go postal! 

I drew a name from the Salvation Army Angel Tree in TBS. The name I drew was a 77 yr old woman who requested warm clothes or food for her Christmas gift. I tried for two days to find a wool shawl for her. Since I don’t know her size it didn’t make sense to buy a sweater. After discovering I couldn’t communicate my need to store employees I asked Marika with whom Ron works to write out in Georgian what I needed. Bingo. I found it in the third shop I tried. I then continued the search and got wool gloves and socks, a knit hat and scarf. Shopping in developing countries is an adventure. You don’t have the luxury of a department store. Most shops are the size of a large closet with one sales person. The shops are often unlit and sometimes unheated. The stock is quite limited. It is hit or miss in terms of what you will find inside of the shop. I probably spent a couple of hours buying these few items. My feet were very tired by the end of the day.  

Batumi is under construction. Parts of town have lovely sidewalks. I don’t need to watch where I am walking as the sidewalks are new and level with no missing pavement. Most of these are actually quite lovely, made of pavers in various patterns with cut stone, mosaics with smooth river stones, etc. There are curb stones and no concrete. The sidewalks are made of cut stones and arranged in a variety of pleasing patterns using two or more colors. The streets are often the same. In other parts of town the sidewalks don’t exist. They have been torn up in anticipation of replacement. These areas I have to watch every step. There are rocks, gravel, mud, large holes for sewer access…well you get the picture.

 

Jason and the Golden Fleece

Ron finished up his first week of classes in time for us to have a brief outing. We went to lunch together, our first since arriving on Monday. Then we went to the art museum a few blocks away. It was a small provincial museum. When we exited it was pouring rain so we came back to the hotel. Ron read his book and I read the NY Times on line. We ventured out again for dinner. Being tired of Georgian cuisine we walked over to the Sheraton, a large, new hotel near by because the rain persisted. We went up to the 20^th floor and we were the only diners there. The menu was limited but we decided on pasta and were pleased with the decision. Half way through our meal a party of four arrived and joked about not having reservations. Ron quipped ‘I think you will be seated with no problems’.  The only English channel we can get in Batumi is CNN news so our viewing is limited. We read until bedtime. 

Today we have had a lot of rain, rain mixed with snow and then two healthy hail storms. Then we had a thunder storm with rain and now it is snowing to beat the band. Oy! I really need to get out daily but haven’t gotten out of the hotel yet today. It is cold here, in the high 30’s. Hopefully the rain will abate and I can get to the grocery store for more soy milk for tomorrow’s bowl of granola.

Nov 13 2011

We never got out on Saturday as Ron worked all day teaching, but we did today. We walked over to the ‘Dophinium’ at 11:00 and they had a show at 5:00 so we skipped that idea.. We continued our walk in the rain and went to the archeology museum. It was unheated and therefore cold as the temps are in the 40’s now. But it was dry and had a good exhibit of local area finds. The guard walked ahead of us and would turn the lights on the display case as we approached. When we finished viewing he would turn off the lights. It gives you an idea of how tight things are in this country. Afterwards we walked to the grocery store to get soy milk and some snacks for our room. We stopped on the way home in a small warm lovely café and had a light lunch. It was pouring rain for some of our walk and even with umbrellas we got soaked: our gloves, our pants below the knees and my backpack purse was wet inside and out. We stayed in our room for the rest of the day.  Ron worked some and I read and did e-mails. and ate dinner at the hotel.

November 14

Today the sun came out. Hooray! After seven days of rain I needed a break. I bundled up as it is still cold and took a long walk by the sea. Batumi’s fortune is its beach and it recognizes that fact. So there is a wonderful broad walkway along the sea that goes for miles. I walked for 40 minutes in one direction and still didn’t come to the end of the walkway. There are men out everyday cleaning the beaches of debris. Even though it is off season the beaches remain spotless. The beaches here are made of smooth, colorful rocks ranging from large stones the size of my foot to pebbles and occasionally mixed with coarse dark sand. For the most part they are mid sized stones making it difficult to walk and I would imagine very uncomfortable for sitting. Unfortunately this part of the world is way behind the curve when it comes to awareness about pollution so Batumi, a city of 122,000 (2002 census), puts all of its waste water (yes that does include raw sewerage) right into the ocean untreated so many people get sick when they swim here. No surprise there. Some how, no one seems to have made the connection between the various physical problems one has from swimming in polluted water. All the countries that border the Black Sea are polluters from industry as well as untreated waste water. We take a lot for granted in the US; things like clean air and water come to mind immediately.

Tuesday November 15th

We had another glorious day of sun until about 4:00. I took a walk after breakfast along the sea. After lunch I went on a photo expedition. There are some beautiful buildings here with some special features like the iron work on doors and balconies. Hopefully Ron will have time to post some. The temps are in the high 40’s to the high 30’s during the day. Many shops have their doors open because they aren’t heated. I doubt that many homes are either. So when the sun is out you can count on people flocking to the streets, sitting in the sun on benches, walls or stoops. They also come out because they live in such tight quarters. It is not unusual for families with children and perhaps a grandparent to live in one bedroom apartments. Again most of us have much to be grateful for in the US. On my walk I passed a street sweeper and asked if I could take his photo. He laughed and agreed. I wanted his photo because he is a city employee and his broom is made from branches from a tree or bush. It is not a manufactured item and this is all I have ever seen in Georgia.

 I just was reading about Batumi and learned it is the wettest place in Georgia, getting 107 inches a year. Well no wonder!

 Wednesday November 16th

The rain is back but I got in a short walk after breakfast before the rain came. I walked out onto the beach and never saw any sand, just stones. They were pretty with all the shapes, sizes and colors. I walked to a Ukrainian restaurant where Ron and I had dinner earlier this week. I was the only woman who was dining among about 12-15 men. As I sat at the table, I spied three holes in the curtains, just the size of a cigarette burn. We have one in the upholstered chair in our room the same size. We also have a burn in the carpet and two on the tub. We sit at the same place every morning in the breakfast dining room. There is a burn in the curtain there also.These Georgians love their cigarettes and their cars.

Travels in Georgia and some musing

November 8 2011

Last Friday Ron went to Borjomi, about two hours from TBS, and taught on Saturday then came back to TBS. I spent the night with our friend Kirsten and her son Aquil as we were required to move out of the Betsy (our hotel), as my expenses are not covered. On Saturday the weather was perfect: a blue, blue sky, sunny and warm where only a turtle neck shirt was needed. I walked to Old Town and ate lunch outside and then walked back to the hotel, 40 minutes uphill and the last five minutes on level ground. Oy! I have managed to stay busy even living in the hotel with no responsibilities other than hand washing in the evenings and occasional ironing. I found an inexpensive alternative to the hotel laundry and walk there to take our shirts and jeans. 

Maia Bazuashvili is the massage therapist we used when we lived here. On Sunday she invited us to visit her home in her village and her apartment in TBS. She came to the Betsy and her cousin drove us to the village, about 30 minutes west of TBS. Maia’s mother wanted to meet us as we had paid to put a new roof on her house which had been leaking badly. The home is quite old as Maia’s grandfather had built it. It is in a small village. It is a large home that is now divided into two separate living quarters. Apparently there was a family feud in the past and the result was the sealing off of one part of the house. Maia’s part includes an entry where wood is stored for heating. There a large room that will eventually we divided into two bedrooms, a small kitchen and dining area. From here you go outside to a large covered veranda and enter another room which was heated. There was a dining table, a couple of beds, a playpen for the two year old Maia has adopted and a crib. There was also a china cabinet in the room. Down below were tow storage areas, dirt floor basements. One is used for food storage and wine making, a given in any village. I assume there was an outhouse in the yard. We met Maia’s mom, her older sister and her baby. Maia’s sister will keep the baby in the village this winter as Maia’s apartment is not heated. Nino, Maia’s sister, has not been able to find work for five years. She will not do housework for pay so she takes care of the baby. The baby has Down’s syndrome. He doesn’t yet walk or talk. In addition he has had heart surgery and may require additional surgery on his aorta to improve the blood flow. Fortunately the surgery is paid for by the government but medical appointments, tests and medicines are not. 

After visiting the family in the village we went to a late lunch which Maia had insisted on. We ate Georgian fare: two kinds of meat, cheese bread, plain bread. Then we went to her apartment in TBS. Maia has lived there for all but 2 of her 45 years. She was two when the family moved in. The building is the classic Soviet style concrete box. She lives in the fourth floor and the elevator hasn’t worked for years. Unlike most places her stairwell is now lit, the lights were installed two weeks ago and are operated by motion detectors. There was a small entry way, a living room and a bedroom. The kitchen was small as was the bathroom. The bathroom had a corner where all the tiles were missing and plumbing was exposed. Obviously this was a result of a repair many years ago. On the other side of the kitchen was a small storage room. Maia had hung the photos Ron gave her when we left in June and she had a cabinet in the living room that she called her American corner where she has numerous items from events at the embassy’ This included red, white and blue foil decorations, small fliers and banners. It was quite touching. 

 Maia works half time at the US embassy as a janitor and makes $2.00 an hour. She supplements her income doing massage and housekeeping but her massage clients were Americans who worked at the embassy and they left this summer with the normal rotation. The woman who employed her as a house keeper left as well. Maia has been unable to replace that income. This is Georgia and how it goes here. Maia supports her mother, her sister, her son and helps support her niece and nephew whose mom, Maia’s younger sister, died six years ago from cancer. The father of her sister’s children finds work only occasionally. Although Maia was very embarrassed by her meager means she did want to share her life with us and we were deeply touched. She is a very special person and will always hold a special place in our hearts. Afterwards we came back to the hotel to pack for Batumi.

Ron and I came to Batumi on the Black Sea coast yesterday. Gia, our former driver who now works for MSI, the same company Ron is working for, drove us here. I was reminded how much I dislike traveling in Georgia. Ninety percent of the trip was on a two lane road, heavily traveled by Turkish semis that are bringing products to Georgia and Russia including a lot of Georgia’s food. Georgia imports 85% of its food from Russia, Turkey and Germany. In addition to the semis, there are many Georgians on the road. I don’t need to mention again how poorly and recklessly Georgians drive. Gia is an excellent driver and very professional. He obeys all rules of the road (except maybe the speed limit). We got 20 minutes out of Tbilisi it started to snow. After 60 minutes we had to go very slowly and questioned as to whether we could get to Batumi, our destination. However we passed through the storm. Our journey took six hours. We were supposed to leave TBS at 10-10:30 but left at 1:30 due to some poor program planning, requiring night driving. It is best to never drive at night in ROG due to driver error and drivers who drink and drive. In addition to all the traffic we had to contend with, there were numerous cows and cow herds crossing the road going home for the eveining. The worst was when we would round a bend in the road and come across cattle in the middle of the road. Oy! There were sheep and pigs beside the road as well creating potential danger. 

It is not unusual to pass through the center of towns driving 40-50 miles per hour. On the open road 80 mph is normal. I sat in the back and could see the speedometer. Gia’s car came from the US although it is a Japanese car. But his odometer is calibrated in miles not kilometers. We will be here for 12 days and Ron will be teaching workshops for local government participants. Alas we arrived at 7:30, tired but alive. We dined in the hotel’s Italian restaurant as we are quite tired of Georgian fare.

This morning we woke up to a dusting of snow in Batumi. This is very early for snow. When we lived here in 2009-11 snow usually occurred after the first of the year. One of the cars traveling after us with staff yesterday had to turn back to TBS because of snow and many accidents. I am grateful that didn’t happen to us as Ron’s schedule is full and doesn’t allow for any wiggle room. He works six days a week here and usually has a few hours of work on Sundays as well. But he is happy to have work.

It is interesting being back and for a short stay. One day this week as I was walking around TBS I was observing and analyzing my experience. Sometimes when I am in a developing country I grow weary of the experience. I was thinking about why that was. When I got home this summer after 21 months in Georgia I summed up the country by saying it was grim. This week I said ‘grim and broken’.  Georgians are grim and I don’t blame them. This is a very poor country with very few opportunities. Even if you can find a job which many cannot, the pay is not a living wage. When the Soviets left in 1990-91 they took the jobs by closing the factories, and they took all the money in the banks so Georgians saw their savings and livelihoods disappear overnight. Then there was a civil war to add to their misery. There is a small middle class here but those in the rural areas are desperately poor and there are many poor in the cities as well. Consequently as you pass people on the street, they are not smiling. Even if I can make eye contact and I greet the person, I often get nothing in response and smiles are rare. That is what makes Georgia grim for the most part. The broken part of Georgia has to do with everything else. The sidewalks are atrocious. They are either heaved up by tree roots, missing pavement, or are gravel or mud or have large holes or divots, enough to turn your ankle or experience a dangerous fall if you don’t watch every step. I have to look at my feet when I walk. The roads are missing pavement or manhole covers. This week while walking I discovered tree trunks in the streets that had been sawed off a few inches above the payment and three inch metal stubs sticking up about eight inches from the curb. These must have been sign posts at some point but someone cut them down but left enough of the post to do damage. As a pedestrian I often have to walk in the street as drivers park their cars on the sidewalk leaving no room for pedestrians. It is rare to see a building that doesn’t scream for attention: broken railings, loose tiles, concrete siding sloughing off the side of the building, painting that is so long overdue, stained walls, mildew and mold abound, etc. This is what I mean by broken. There area few historic buildings that were once grand, even beautiful but now they are falling apart in disrepair. However, some have been restored and the government is trying to focus on key areas and make improvements to structures and the city infrastructure.  The one thing the Georgians know how to do is light up buildings.  Tbilisi and Batumi are at their best at night.

Due to foreign investment there are areas in TBS where there is restoration occurring. Old Town is a prime example where Ron likes to say ‘it has been restored to a condition it never was’. All the homes and commercial building have been or are being given new facades. This is also true of Signaghi, a tourist town two hours east of TBS and Mskheta, a town west of TBS. The same goes for the central parts of Batumi.  Unfortunately the Georgian government is not doing anything to develop the economy in a sustainable way. If the foreign investment left, the country would have little measurable economy. There are a handful of extremely wealthy Georgians. Some of these men made there wealth in Russia when the Soviet Union collapsed. I previously mentioned Bidzinia Ivanishvili who is worth $5.5 billion. He has done wonderful things for Georgia. He is paying for the restoration of the TBS opera house and the restoration of the original administrative building at TBS State University. Both are huge products costing in the millions of dollars.  In his village he built a community center as well as repairs on residents’ homes. He built the French School in TBS, a private school. He also contributed heavily to the construction of the Orthodox cathedral.

Tbilisi from the travelers perspective

October 20 2011

For the past couple of days the weather has turned blustery with lots of wind and occasional rain and cold. We had to shut the window in our bathroom due to the cold but discovered nothing gets dry in there with no air circulation. We wash out our socks, underwear and handkerchiefs daily and have a small clothes line that we use for our hand washing when we travel. So today I climbed back on top of the tub edges to open the transom over the window so our items didn’t mildew. 

Today I met three friends: Nino, our former housekeeper, met me for coffee, Maia, our artist friend, met both of us for lunch at one of our favorite restaurants Pur Pur and I met Satvir, a young man from India whom we befriended through our favorite Indian restaurant. Pur Pur is owned by an artist (metal worker) and has a rather unusual yet creative décor and a great menu. We always meet with Maia there as it is close to her apartment. It was great to see each of our friends and find out how they were doing. 

Ron has been busy at work and that makes him happy. His last job here was boring by comparison. He will be training people in local government on a number of topics but this week his proposed schedule has change literally everyday. We hope to get a firm schedule by next week so we can plan accordingly. Ron will travel to at least one location outside of Tbilisi to do the training and hopefully I will be able to join him. 

Last night we went to Little India, our favorite Indian restaurant. After we came out we were waiting for a taxi and I watched three different people back up though a cross street. It was dark and a very stupid and dangerous move but so very Georgian. Needless to say I still find myself muttering under my breath about the bad driving here. When I got home I discovered we had heat from the radiators in our room. No more worry about getting our hand washing dry.

October 22, 2011

The weather has turned back to Indian summer here and it is delightful. Yesterday I got a manicure and went to the laundry on the metro to pick up our clothes. They weren’t ready so this will require another trip across town on the metro. I walked so much yesterday while on errands and meeting Ron for lunch that everything hurt: my feet, my back and my hips. Good lord, getting old is not for sissies!  I came back to the room and rested, took an ibuprofen and a very hot soaking bath. Later we went out to dinner but eating in restaurants is beginning to catch up with us so we had soup and a light green salad and bread at our fave Italian place. I loved going out to eat but three times a day gets old rather quickly. I am grateful that the food at our hotel is good. Many places that include breakfast serve a poor meal, high in carbs and low in quality. The Betsy has a great buffet with eggs to order any style. The fruit is fresh daily. All the bread products are fresh as well. They do not serve lunch although there is a small coffee shop run by another company within the hotel. They have a limited lunch menu and espresso drinks. Dinner here is good but expensive so we often go out for dinner. 

Today Ron is working (it is Saturday). He got his travel schedule. This week he will go to Batumi on the Black Sea coast for three days to do some training. I will check out of the Betsy and stay with Kirsten and her son (and Ron’s nose brother) Aquil, friends from the US embassy while Ron is gone. Then Ron will be in TBS doing more training for a week. Then we will go back to Batumi and stay there for two full weeks while he does more training. I will go with him then. There is little to do in Batumi so I decided to stay in TBS for the first trip but go with him for the longer trip as neither of us likes to be separated for long periods. After 26 years we are rather fond of one another! 

Yesterday I did a little shopping looking for bar soap and hand cream without perfume. Since 85% of the products in the grocery stores are imported from Russia, Turkey and Germany, I can’t read the labels. I asked a clerk who showed me what to buy. She got it half right. I have soap without perfume and hand cream with perfume. Yuck! 

Today when Ron is finished with his work we will walk down the hill and over to the dry bridge area where there is a daily flea market. We only bought one thing there in the time we lived here, a hammered copper pot. But we love to go look, seeking treasure. There is everything from war metals, old coins, used dishes, antiques and junk, particularly a glut of jewelry that looks like it is plastic imitating amber and the like. Some of the cut glass and china is lovely but ornate and not our style. 

October 24, 2011

Bidzina Ivanishvili is a Georgian billionaire (worth $5 billion ) who recently announced his intention to enter politics. He made his money in Russia when the USSR collapsed. He currently lives in Tbilisi. As soon as he announced his intentions strange coincidences occurred. First his citizenship was revoked because he also holds a Russian and French passport, i.e. citizenship. Georgia apparently doesn’t allow for dual citizenship. Funny that it just now became as issue as he has lived here for a while. Next the government seized a vehicle that was transferring large amounts of cash from a bank to his bank, claiming that money was being laundered. In fact it is a common practice for banks to transfer large amounts of cash back and forth. But they arrested the employees in the vehicle and seized the cash ($2 million dollars and 1 million EUROS). It is evident that the current administration is anxious about his intentions to seek the PM position which the current president is considering so he can run for president again. Gee this sounds vaguely familiar ala Putin. 

More news from Georgia. It was reported today that 11 out of 20 meat samples taken in supermarkets in Tbilisi and Kutaisi, the second largest city in GA were tainted with a bacteria. No wonder my friend Steph who lives here gets food poisoning frequently. We rarely cooked with meat when we lived here and normally we dined in finer restaurants so didn’t get sick. OY!

Back in Tbilisi

Oct 13 2011

Ron and I left for the airport on Monday Oct 10^th to fly to Tbilisi. When we arrived we discovered that our plane would be late due to bad weather in San Francisco. To make a long story short, we could not make our connection in SF for Munich so we came back home and caught the flights the following day, Tuesday the 11^th.  I had completely emptied the refrigerator before leaving since we are to be gone for almost two months. So we had nothing to eat. We dined out for dinner, breakfast and ate lunch at the airport the following day.  

We caught a 1:00 p.m. flight to SF, had a six hour layover, then caught a flight to Munich and had another five hour layover before flying into Tbilisi. We spent 30 hours in transit, arriving at our hotel at 5:00 a.m. on Thursday. Our former driver, Gia, offered to pick us up at the airport. It was wonderful to see his smiling face when we emerged from collecting some of our luggage. One bag didn’t make it. We managed to sleep for a couple of hours then got up and had breakfast. We are in the older part of the Betsy Hotel. The two previous stays were in the newer section. We have a pleasant room with one wall of windows overlooking the city. We have a bathtub/shower which is not available in the newer section. I love taking a bath so was excited to see one in our room. My joy was short lived however. I discovered that the plumber who installed it was a knucklehead. He put the faucet at the end of the tub where your back rests, the slanted end of the tub. So it is impossible to lean back while the water is filling the tub. If you turn the water off and scoot down under the faucet you can relax but you have to be careful not to bump your head when you sit up. How do I know this? I bumped my head and manoschevitz it hurts. The other wend of the tub is narrow as your feet don’t need the width and there is a knob in the tub at that end that you turn to close the plug so it was impossible to use that end for my back. It also is not slanted but straight up and down.

Ah Georgia! 

After breakfast I walked with Ron to his office to see where he worked. It is close by, maybe 15 minutes by foot. Our friend James Wall got Ron and me to start walking for exercise when he visited us this summer and I truly hope to walk all over Tbilisi this trip as we will not have a driver as we did before. Luckily the Betsy is located near downtown, high on a hill overlooking the city. I can walk to the main drag easily and also to the metro. It is a steep climb coming back up the hill but it is all good exercise. 

October 15, 2011

We are sleeping quite well for the most part. I did wake up at 4:00 this morning but was able to get back to sleep around 6:00 and slept until almost 9:00. The weather was beautiful yesterday and today. Sunny but not too hot. Since we didn’t bring hot weather clothes I am grateful. We have made connection with many friends already. Yesterday while Ron was working I had lunch and ran errands with my dear friend Steph from Minnesota. Last night we had dinner with 13 people we had met through IWA when we were living here. Today, Saturday we had lunch  with Lily, her four year old daughter Adey and her nanny Fantanesh. All three are from Ethiopia but Lily has lived in the US for many years and works here for the World Bank. We met over a year ago and became fast friends. Tonight we will eat at the hotel.  

Ron and I are walking a lot. One of my goals is to do a lot of walking for the time we are here and hopefully be more fit by the time we leave in December. Yesterday we tried to find a better path for Ron to walk to work. We walked for 45 minutes and ended up going to the Radisson for a decent cup of coffee before coming home. Yesterday afternoon we tried to find a gallery that we like here that had moved to our current neighborhood so we walked another 45 minutes. Later we walked to dinner, a 20 minute walk. Yeah! 

Coming Home

July 9 2011

To wrap up our ROG adventure, we returned to the US on June 15^th. We were in DC for two days while Ron wrapped up with Treasury and visited a couple of international non governmental organizations to talk about future short term assignments. Treasury asked Ron to be on the intermittent list as well. We visited our kids and grandkids which was a real treat then headed home arriving late Sunday night, June 19^th. Jane Burke was kind enough to pick us up at the airport and bring us home.

On Monday Jane moved in with us as Jim, her husband, is bicycling across the US and their house is occupied by people with whom they are doing a house exchange. We unpacked our six suitcases and started on the 30 boxes that we stored in our basement while we were in ROG. I needed to go to the grocery stores where I shopped to stock the pantry and refrigerator. It is so easy to shop here with such a wide availability of items. I bought many things that we had not had for the 21 months we had been gone.  Monday night the three of us went to the mattress store and bought three new mattresses: one for the apartment, one for a guest room and one for us. We had fun acting like Goldilocks at the store trying out various mattresses.

On Tuesday we finished the boxes. Ron was busy in the office working on the presentation he was to give in Vietnam, leaving on Thursday. I woke up Wednesday and went down to the kitchen and realized I was thoroughly exhausted. I had been operating on joy and excitement about being home but had been going non stop. My body said slow down and I did. I started working a while then spending time at the computer or some other non physical activity.

On Thursday I took Ron to the airport and off he went for eight days. While gone, I ironed, god what a mountain of ironing was left after unpacking six suitcases. I still have more to do. I gardened, buying and planting plants for the patio and porch pots/boxes. It really helped me feel as though I had reclaimed our home. It felt rather unlived in when we arrived. There is a ton of maintenance that needs to be done but we have started on it and hope to finish by the end of August. When Ron returned we used our neighbor’s power washer to clean our patio, deck and sidewalks in the backyard. He didn’t finish but he got the majority of it done. Next we will clean the mold off the deck and the apartment deck and steps. NW winters take their toll. He has a lot of touch up painting to do outside and in the apartment which we will rent in August. For now Jane is our neighbor there. Jane has been a great help. In the evenings the three of us worked the daily crossword, a fun activity for all of us. Ron got our computers set up and the office straightened out. What a mess it was. While Ron was gone to Vietnam, numerous problems arose: the internet went out, the basement floor had standing water from a plumbing problem, the TV didn’t work and the car died. I was at my wits end as these are the things Ron always takes care of and I felt under the gun to make progress while he was gone. Fortunately we were able to communicate and he gave me guidance and all of it got resolved. Let’s just say that re-entry has its moments: highs and lows. Joy at being back home and bumps with adjustments.

WOW! A month has flown by and I never finished this. To wrap up, we are still are catching up on maintenance. As I reflect on ROG, I realize the word ‘grim’ keeps coming to mind. Our experience wasn’t grim but the country is somewhat grim with its Soviet era architecture, so many people wearing black clothing and often walking down the street with grim expressions. We are most grateful for the chance to spend 21 months there and to travel throughout the region. We are one lucky pair of love birds.

We will return to Tbilisi sometime in Oct. as Ron has a promise for 48 days work between Oct-January. As this is a different job and different employer we will be on our own as it were. No benefits from the embassy, Bummer.  But the work will be challenging and within Ron’s passion which is local government.