Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Catch-up & miscellaney

May 24, 2010
I must say I am ‘behinder’ than usual. I have gotten very busy here and other things seem to get in the way of blogging so my apologies to our readers.

I have accepted a volunteer position as Tbilisi State University. In 2005 the national government decided to stop funding state schools and the onus is now on the schools to find addition funds to exist. TBS won a grant that had a consultant perform an assessment of the management system. One recommendation was to create an alumni relations office to maintain communication with alums and hopefully obtain some funds from the more successful alumni. TBS is the oldest (90 years) and largest public university in Georgian. Many politicians, and professionals are graduates of TSU. This year TSU won another grant to develop an alumni relations office. I have volunteered to help the newly hired chief alumni officer develop the program. A consultant will visit TSU three times this summer fro assessment and training. Unfortunately I will miss the first visit. He arrives the day after we leave and leaves two days before our return. Bummer!

We leave Friday, May 28th for a meeting in Atlanta. The meetings start on June 3rd so we will zip up to DC to see our kids for Friday-Tuesday and come back to Atlanta on the 2nd. Then we will drive to SC to see my family on June 10th and drive back on Monday June 14 to catch our plane back here, arriving June 15th. My dear friend James Wall has moved to Atlanta recently so I will spend time with him while Ron is attending his meetings. Another friend of high school lives in Atlanta and James has hooked us up so Nan and I will have 47 years of catching up to do! Yikes, can I be that old?

Things are going much better here for Ron. His work is finally moving along, not as fast as he would like but at least it is now moving! IWA is slowing down for me as we don’t meet again until September so there will be no fundraising activities. This is the perfect time for me to help TSU with their project but I think the fall will be real busy when IWA starts to gear up for fall activities. Hopefully things at TSU will be off to a good start and my work will start to wan by then. How’s that for positive thinking?

We are having spring weather here. It rains often but the sun comes out almost daily. We have taken the wool blankets off the bed and opened the window and turned off all the radiators. Everyone says summers are hot here. We have air conditioners in each room but we prefer fresh air over the AC. My guess is we will need AC in order to sleep.

I planted two packets of nasturtiums that I had ordered from the US and they are all germinating. I hope they survive our being away for 17 days. I have asked my housekeeper to come three times a week to water plants. I planted about 15-17 pots to help soften the concrete castle we live in. I am pleased with the results. Our yard is miniscule and I am grateful that I think I can keep up with the weeds. My gardener doesn’t seem to notice them and I never seem to be here when he is here to show him how to weed. We have a horrid grass weed with roots to China. I dig and dig and never seem to find the bottom. My arthritic fingers don’t much like pulling weeds.

We have been engaging in lots of social activities: dinner parties, meeting friends at restaurants for lunch on Sunday, and having friend here for dinner. I am excited to be working at TSU because I will be working with Georgians as I find I don’t have as much interaction as I would like through my normal course of the day. I am learning first hand about some of our cultural differences. For instance, Georgians sense of time is more casual than ours. Today we had a meeting with the Vice Rector of the university. She is the equivalent to the VP. The meeting was scheduled for 11:00. At 11:05 I asked Mariam the chief alumni officer what time the meeting was with the VR and she said 11:00. A minute or so later we got up to go downstairs to meet with her. It’s what Ron calls GST (Georgian Standard Time). Georgians also don’t plan ahead (as evidenced by the way they drive). It was decided this morning that we should have a meeting this week to inform the key staff about the consultant’s visit next week. He will be meeting with the same staff who will be invited to the meeting to be held on Thursday. But that is one of the benefits of working with Georgians: I will learn more about their way of life.

The thing I dislike the most about living here is the driving. When we had our security orientation, the security officer said the biggest danger in Georgia was not the possibility of being robbed, murdered or burglarized but getting into a car. He encouraged us to never drive at night due to the amount of drinking and driving that occurs here. I mentioned lack of planning above. Multiple times a day every day I see drivers in the far left lane making right hand turns. They often do this when stopped at a red light, turning in front of three lanes of stopped traffic. Countless times I have witnessed drivers running red lights without even slowing down. My least favorite offense is the drivers who blow through a red light at a specially designated pedestrian crossing. A pedestrian could be crossing the street and the driver would not see the pedestrian until they had run over them. There are few places to make left hand turns here or to find a convenient place to U-turn. Drivers have to go a long way sometimes to make a left handed turn. For instance to get to our fresh market it is illegal to make a left handed turn onto the street where the market is located so Gia drives across the river, exits under the bridge so he can get back onto the bridge on the correct side of the street re-crosses the river and makes a right hand turn. This maneuver take 4 right hand turns. It is a very typical move here. At an intersection near our house many driver blow through the red light so they can turn left before the oncoming traffic has a green light. As a pedestrian, I have to watch out to make sure one of these idiots doesn’t kill me while I am trying to cross that street. I feel very blessed that I don’t have to drive here and am very grateful that Gia is so skillful. He watches all his mirrors and the road ahead constantly checking to see who is doing what around him. I have seen police cars break every traffic law imaginable: driving in the opposing lane of traffic ( a very common practice here by every driver, not just police cars), driving on the sidewalk, running red lights, making illegal u-turns and left hand turns to name a few. Only once have I seen a police car stop a traffic violator, someone driving top speed in a congested commercial/residential area. By the way, almost every street is a mixed use area: commercial on the first floor and residential above. Most buildings here are four-15 stories high and most have small shops/businesses on the first floor and residences above. There are very few individual homes here. The vast majority of people in Tbilisi live in high rise concrete ugly buildings with tiny balconies where they dry their clothes as almost no one owns a clothes dryer. Recently I asked Gia, our driver, how long he had lived in his apartment. He said “All my life.” I almost fell over. I counted up how many places I had lived and came up with 28. Granted I am older but I had lived in three places by the time I was 8! If you went to the villages outside of Tbilisi you would find people living in small houses for the most part and they would be quite humble judging from the outside. I would guess most do not have central heating if any heat at all. The Georgians that I have asked told me they heat one room in their apartments here as it is very expensive. Our housekeeper and Laurie’s housekeeper call and then ask us to call them back on our phones to reduce the cost of their cell phone usage. It is as though their watch every tetri (100 tetri make one lari about $0.53). A friend of ours said he thinks it is more a matter of getting what you can from the system, a holdover from Soviet days. For example Nino, our housekeeper asked me if she could shower here because her house is not heated. It is now spring, much warmer, but she continues to shower here, saving her water usage and electricity to heat water assuming they have a hot water heater. As Americans most of us have an abundance by comparison. I have been to two apartments where Georgians live and have been made aware of how little space they have. Tim, Ron’s predecessor here, told us the Georgians he knew loved to come to his house because they could spread out and really relax because of the space available. I have been in many homes where American are living or other expats and diplomats and we all have large homes or apartments that for the most part are elegant at best and more than adequate at worst. There are some very wealthy Georgians who live well but I would guess most people here are below middle class.

Ron has gotten a wild hair and want to buy an old Russian jeep to be his project car. Not a project to fix up, but a vehicle to use to pick-up project materials for projects around the house. We know we need a new car when we get home and deciding on what to get has always been difficult because he wants to be able to carry a full sheet of plywood. If we have another way to do that, we will have more options on what to buy. Before coming here he was thinking of an old step-side pick-up truck. But now, he’s looking into what it will take to bring one of these things home. Besides, he likes the way these things look. It must be a “guy” thing! They call it a GAZ 69.

I think I menioned before that we purchased a Mafrash a while ago.  Many of you have written to ask:  "Just what is a Mafrash"  Well, it's an original carpet bag, abour 2 feet long by one foot wide and 18 inches deep.  We had a small table/bench built so we can place the Magrash upside down over it and use it as a suitcase stand in one of our guest rooms at home in Vancouver.
April 22, 2010

Last Saturday we feasted on salmon, fresh asparagus and fresh strawberries. It is SPRING! Our weather is typical for spring: rainy day followed by a warm sunny day, back and forth. It was in the mid 70’s on Sunday so I got the gardening bug bad and dug in the dirt for a couple of hours planting cone flowers, black eyed Susan’s and lupine. For the kitchen I planted thyme, oregano, parsley and rosemary. Sorry about that sage…

Ron’s work has finally kicked into gear. He has had more meetings with Papuna, deputy minister of finance and Giorgi, budget director since we got back from the US than he has had the six months we have been here. This makes both of us happy.

We have been looking at mafrashes, a woven bag much like an open topped bag used when the bridge left her home to carry her belongings or used for carrying other household items. Ron had a great idea to make a bedspread using the two side panels on the top of the bed in the middle and the two ends panels for the pillow area. Easier said than done. We went to Rudy’s and found a mafrash we really liked but decided to look further. A friend recommend Jamal who works out of his home. He brought some mafrashes to the house and we didn’t like any of them compared to the one we had seen downtown. Jamal came back later with more samples including a rug he suggested cutting up to make our bedspread. When we looked at the rug, we really liked it and asked if we could keep it and show it to our friend Anne Patterson who is an expert on regional carpets. Anne said it was a good buy. So we bought it. It will require repairs but that is Jamal’s specialty. Anne has a number of carpets that he has repaired and when she showed them to us we could not see where the repairs had been made. Anne has over 130 pieces in her collection, not all are carpets but she does have quite a few carpets. Jamal also bought some mafrashes we loved, very traditional patterns but the family who was selling them wanted $550. We went back downtown and bought the original mafrash we had seen. We decided to keep it as a mafrash and not disassemble it for the bedspread idea. We asked Jamal to make the needed repairs. The hunt continues.

I was approached by the head of an NGO here about doing a volunteer job with Tbilisi State University. After meeting with Kevin and his assistant Eka I decided to take it. It will be for six months starting in May or June. This is right when IWA shuts down for the summer. The timing seemed perfect. I will help develop an alumni office which is non existent in these parts. Lots needs to be dine but it seems like a neat project with loads of potential.

Saturday we are going to David Gareja on the border with Azerbaijan. There are 15 old monasteries spread over a large remote area that looks like a lunar semi desert landscape. The oldest monastery was founded by Davit (David) Gareja, one of the 13 ascetic ‘Syrian fathers’ who returned from the Middle East to spread Christianity to Georgia in the 6th century. Manuscript were translated and copied and a school of Georgian fresco painting developed. The monasteries were destroyed by the Mongols in 1265 and revived in the early 14th century. They were later sacked and in 1615 on Easter night 6000 monks were killed and most of their artistic treasures were destroyed by Shah Abbas of Persia. In 1675 King Archil initiated some restoration and gave monks a small stipend. They remained working until the end of the 19th century. During the Soviet times the area was used by military exercises. Some of the earliest demonstrations of the perestroika period in Tbilisi were protests against this vandalism. Davit and his disciples lived in caves here. Frescoes from the 11th century still exist and it is now a working monastery once again. We will be able to hike around the area for about three hours before heading back to Tbilisi. We have to visit in the spring as in the summer the area is infested with snakes, yikes!

When we return it will be a quick turn around to attend a charity auction/dinner/dance. Should be a very full day!

Sunday April 25
It rained the entire day yesterday so we only got to see the lower monastery of David Gareja. It was very foggy on the drive up to the monastery so we could see very little. It was cold (60 F). The complex is truly fascinating with most of the structure built into the rock or carved out of the rock. We look forward to going again in better weather. Nino from the Embassy Community Liaison Office said this was her 18th trip and the first time it had been this wet. This region is considered a desert with very little rain fall. Not so today! As it was we were an hour and a half late getting back to town so we walked in the door, showered quickly and changed clothes and headed out the door at 6:40 for a quick stop by at Rami and Patrick’s open house and then on to the charity dinner/dance where we boggied all night to the sounds of the beatles

Repairs, a Party and Sunshine

Feb 25, 2010
Today two plumbers came to clear the bathtub drain on the third floor. They brought a toilet plunger. Three electricians came to find out why our security lights weren’t on and two men came to work on the refrigerator that leaks water on the inside of the refrigerator. So I had seven men here at once working on minor repairs. This must be a hold over from the Soviet era where everyone had a job!

Feb 26
We got a new refrigerator delivered today. It is much nicer than the old one but would be considered small at home. I ain’t complaining about no free refrigerator!

Feb 28
Today we had an ‘art party’ for Maia who made our wall hanging. We had invited a number of people over to meet her and see her work. On Friday I picked her up at her house and brought her over here to hang some of her pieces. Today she came over early and used our dining room table to display her beautiful scarves of felt and silk. About 20 people came by today. It was a gorgeous sunny day. Rain had been predicted so I did a bit of worrying thinking people wouldn’t come out on a rainy day. Then when it turned out so pretty I worried that they wouldn’t come because it was so nice. Do you get an idea of how much I like to worry?!? One person ordered a custom made felt scarf for her husband and two people were very interested in one of her framed pieces. I don’t know if others will follow up with her but she seemed pleased to have the exposure. A number of people took her card.

It was a fun day. Ron and I worked like a well oiled piece of machinery getting ready. We truly enjoy working on things together and have a good rhythm as a team. Clean up is the same way. It goes easily and quickly. Must have something to do with having been together for so many years and enjoying each other’s company. It helps that neither of us likes confrontation or fighting so we rarely have anything that we disagree over. In the middle of the night, I was awakened by a loud noise and considered getting up but fell asleep before I managed to crawl out of bed. Turns out someone must have been mighty mad or drunk as they completely wrecked our very strong steel gate. It will still be able to keep people out but I am not sure it can be opened for large deliveries. Because we have these incredible security lights that light up the street for a couple of houses in each direction, we have to assume the driver was drunk as you can’t miss this gate. We reported it to the Embassy. Our contact said it will probably be a landlord issue. Who knows what that will entail?

Last night we attended a concert sponsored by the Polish Embassy. The program featured two Russian pianists who were playing Chopin’s first and second concertos. It was a great program. The conservatory was filled to overflowing. I would guess there were fifty people standing throughout the evening. Georgians seem to love the arts. We met in Old Town, Ron walked from work and I had Gia take me there. I went early so I could explore some of the shops. Old Town is being revitalized and it a very attractive area. No gray concrete apartment houses here. Instead there are charming colorful rehabbed buildings. It has some good restaurants and neat shops, galleries, etc. We had a great meal at the French restaurant where we dined a few months ago.

Today is March 2 and the plumbers arrived shortly after the satellite dish guys. Our boiler needed a new water pump which was installed today. We now have a new satellite dish so we can catch the news. I have no idea what has been going on in the world for the past week. I missed the Olympics and I am sad about that. I love watching the Olympics. Such is life. After they finished up I made a quick lunch then walked to the other end of Lvovi to see where the IWA coffee is being held tomorrow. It is at the Dutch Ambassador’s house as his wife is a member. It is a huge and gorgeous place and I wanted to make sure it was within walking distance. It is a perfectly beautiful day today so when I got back home, I took a dining chair, a small side table and my homework outside on the front porch and spent an hour writing questions for my assignment. Elza has busted us for being so lazy lately and told us we need to be speaking Georgian more. So on Saturday night while dining out and last night we spoke Georgian to each other for about five minutes. We have been remiss with our drills although we do our assignments.

Tomorrow is another Georgian holiday so Ron has the day off. We hope the weather holds and plan to have a play day after I get home from the IWA coffee at noon. We want to either walk up to Lisi Lake above our house or go to the botanical gardens. Anytime the weather is pleasant Georgians pour out of their dreary apartment houses and sit in the parks, or on all the benches that are downtown. I am the same way here. I look for reasons to go outside. Our house is quite nice but there are no windows on the right or left side of the house and relatively little light from the north side, making the house darker than I like. Fortunately we have had many more sunny days here than we have at home in the Greyt NW!

Monday, May 10, 2010

May 4 2010

On Sunday we were invited to a Kentucky Derby party given by embassy friends Craig and Svetlana Hart. Craig is from Kentucky. They had invited guests to wear hats of all kinds in the tradition of the derby. What fun. Ron and I decided to dress up for the occasion. I used one of his hats and added silk flowers and a scarf and he won his panama with one of my scarves serving as his ascot! He he. See how cute we are in the photo. There were probably 75 people there. The hats were great. Some of our favorites were a heliport hat, a landing strip with plane hat, a race course hat complete with horses, railing, American flags and pendants with all the horses names, the ‘sheik your booty’ hat to name a few. The Harts had prepared a feast, a Southern feast at that: burgoo, cornpudding, ribs and chicken, pecan pie and such. I got homesick just eating the food.

We were invited to buy chances on the race. So we bought one chance for 5 lari (about $2.50). They sold 100 chances so there would be five winners as there were 20 horses in the race. We drew Super Saver. I told Ron we would win because we are…super savers. Ron’s mom says we squeeze the nickel so hard the Indian is riding the buffalo. Sure enough we won 100 lari, $56. Before distributing the money a woman from USAID made a plea for a child with meningitis and the five winners gave her our winnings. 500 lari will help the child get the needed medication. It poured rain throughout the party but it didn’t dampen our spirits. Craig had erected some tarps over the patio and the house was large enough for the group.

Last night Jamal brought over our mafrash that we purchased a month or so ago. Jamal sells and repairs carpets, and other woven items, such as the mafrash. This is a large woven bag used for carrying items such as clothing before the suitcase was created. It has an open top. We will have a structure made and invert the mafrash over the top and use it as a luggage stand or table. See photo.

We are now working with Lala (have you noticed how the names here have lots of vowels? Unlike the nouns, adjectives, adverbs and verbs). To make us a bedspread from a Turkish textile we bought Easter weekend when we were in Istanbul. She will attach some fabric to the edges of the textile to make it large enough to serve as a coverlet then she will make a bed skirt. Once this project is finished we will have show and tell with photos.

Ron’s work has really taken off since our return from San Francisco. He has had more meetings since our return than in the entire seven months since we arrived. He is much happier to be busy. Tomorrow I will take part in the interviews for the chief alumni officer position at Tbilisi State University. I will volunteer for the project two days a week for six months. Alumni associations are unheard of here and the concept of giving back to the university is unknown also. However the national government was changed the way schools are funded and it is critical that universities find other means of support. This is a grant funded project and I think it will be great fun. How’s that for optimism?